We'd grumbled as we rolled out of our beds before sunrise to the demands of our armed Pakistani guards who'd escorted us across the county. As we loaded our bikes and pulled the straps tight, this glorious dusty and foggy sunrise was our reward. The colours were spectacular.
We'd crawled out of our warm beds at 3:30am to find a rickshaw that would cycle us across Amritsar in the freezing air. I was desperate to photograph the incredible temple at first light.
